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WINTER HEAT

Printed From: Avian Flu Talk
Category: Home & Family Planning
Forum Name: Electricity and Solar Energy
Forum Description: (Electricity & solar energy)
URL: http://www.avianflutalk.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=967
Printed Date: November 12 2018 at 12:54pm


Topic: WINTER HEAT
Posted By: Guests
Subject: WINTER HEAT
Date Posted: January 29 2006 at 4:36pm

Important information on heat during winter months.

Alternative heat sources and safety issues.




Replies:
Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: January 29 2006 at 6:29pm

Originally posted by woffman:

this is a very easy to make little heater/stove. 

It only takes 6 items to make it.

1.  a one quart metal paint can with lid unused.  Can be purchased at any auto parts store that mixes paint.

2.  isopropyl alcohol at least 2 pints worth.

3.  Toilet paper (I bet Albert is getting excited at another use for his supply).

4.  plastic funnel large enough so you can fit a quart paint can upside down in.

5. book of matches

6. a quarter

directions

1.  take the cardboard inner liner out.   Save it for making fire starters.

2.  squeeze the roll of TP till you can put it in the quart paint can.  Leave the center hole so that it faces up.

3.  fill the center hole with more toilet paper from another roll.

4.  pour one pint of the  alcohol into the paint can.  the first pint should fit in and get soaked up very fast.

5.  start pouring the second pint in until the alcohol is at the top of the can.   Let it set for 4 or 5 minutes then add some more.  After it has soaked up all it can turn the can upside down into the funnel.  Let it drain back into the first alcohol bottle. 

6. seal the paint can with the lid

7. tape the book of matches and the quarter to the top of the paint can

Instructions for use.

Pop the top open with the quarter.  Light with the matches and you have a nice little heater or stove.  You can use the lid of the can to control the flame.   You can get up to 12 hours of use if you keep the flame very low.  They will store for about a year before going bad.   I make up some at the start of winter then just discard them in the spring.  They work very well for emergency heat in a car. 

OK now for the disclaimer.    If you are a complete idiot and start your house,   dog, cat, car, or self on fire the author is not responsible. 



Posted By: swankyc
Date Posted: January 29 2006 at 7:57pm
This probably wouldnt last long but, you can burn all that tree chipping and shaving type mulch in your landscaping. 

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I'm not afraid, I'm paranoid. Dont talk too loud, they are listening.


Posted By: Spoon
Date Posted: January 30 2006 at 8:37pm

I make logs, for my woodstove, out of newspaper.  I purchased a newspaper rolling machine from http://www.lehmans.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=2863&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=671&iSubCat=886&iProductID=2863 - Lehmans .

I made a few mods to the machine and the process.

First I added a rolling pin to the top of the shaft with two small bungies.

This allows for one person to operate the machine and keep tension while adding sheets.

I field strip the newspaper down to separated sheets and remove the coated stock inserts.  I start with single sheets.  They're easier to work with as opposed to double folded sheets.  I crank each sheet in, leaving about 4-6" of the end exposed.  I then underlap the next sheet.

With practice, you can crank out a log in under ten minutes.



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It's not so much the apocalypse... but the credit card bills ;-)


Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: January 30 2006 at 10:19pm

http://http://www.motherearthnews.com/library/1978_January_February/The_Amazing__500_Wood_Burning_Stove___That_You_Can_Build_for__35__Or_Less__ - From MotherEarthNews

Issue # 49- January/February 1978

THE AMAZING $500 WOOD-BURNING STOVE ... THAT YOU CAN BUILD FOR $35 (OR LESS!)

Most homebuilt wood-burning stoves are scabbed together from old 55-gallon drums. And they more or less do the job they're supposed to do ... despite the fact that they're notoriously inefficient users of fuel, are difficult to regulate, rapidly burn through, and are so ugly that most people will only tolerate them out in the garage or workshop.

There's no shortage of old electric water heaters in most of this country's landfills and dumps. MOTHER staffer Clarence Goosen contemplates all the groovy woodburners he'll be able to make from one morning's haul of junked water heater tanks. The sparks fly as Robert Smyers converts an old water heater into a stove. Drawing shows general details of "water heater tank to wood-burning stove" conversion.

Perhaps the single really good thing that can be said for the majority of the 55-gallon-drum burners is that (usually) it doesn't cost very much to put one of them together or at least it didn't used to. Here lately, though, the steel barrels have become increasingly difficult to find ... and, when you do locate one of the containers, it frequently has a seven dollar price tag at fixed to it.

There must be a better way to go about assembling a homemade wood-burning stove. And there is' As MOTHER was recently shown by Wilton, Iowa's Robert Wars (who, incidentally, just happens to be the brother of MOTHER researcher Emerson Smyers).

"Forget about messing around with old 55-gallon drums," Bob told us. "What you want to build your stove out of is a discarded electric water heater tank ... for at least four good reasons:

"In the first place, the walls of such a tank are a minimum of three to four times as thick as the metal in a 55-gallon barrel ... which means that a water heater drum will make a much tougher stove that will last a lot longer.

"Second, when you build a firebox from a junked water heater tank, it's very easy to make the stove as airtight and efficient as any $500 woodburner on the market. And I can't say that about any 55-gallon-drum stove I've ever seen.

One of many variations of Bob Smyers's basic design ... and (in smaller box) one of the "cutest" water tank stoves that MOTHER's experimenters have made. Dennis Burkholder also demonstrates that the large, flat, warp-proof filler lid on his heater tank stove can be wed as a near-ideal cooking surface too. This feature, alone, makes the wood-burner a good "standby" to have on hand for any family that might experience utility service disruptions.

"Third, if you construct your heater the way I tell you to, it'll be easy to load, it will have excellent fire and temperature control, and it'll look classy enough to put on display right in the living room.

"And fourth, you can build one of my 'water heater' stoves for even less than most folks now spend putting together a 55gallon-barrel wood-burner. As a matter of fact, I scrounged up everything that went into mine. Which means that the stove cost me only the labor—one good long day—that I used building it."

 Well, now. Those were pretty big claims. Especially since we were listening to them while looking at some photographs of a flat-out good-looking stove. So, in our best and most devious "backwoods of North Carolina" fashion, we challenged ole Bob to prove everything he'd just told us.

And then—just to put him at as large a cost disadvantage as we could—we spit a couple of times, looked at Smyers out of the corner of our eye, and innocently said, "Of course you know, Bob, that a lot of our readers have trouble scavenging up project materials the way you do. So, other than letting you recycle an old water heater tank, we'll just have to make you buy and pay new prices for everything else that goes into any stove you build for us."

"Oh, of course!" Bob answered. And it wasn't so much what he said as the way he said it which told us right then and there that we were the ones who'd been had. Shucks. This Iowa slicker knew from the beginning that he could build a $500 stove and never use more'n $35 worth of materials doing it.

THE SECRET OF THE SMYERS STOVE'S LOW COST

As Bob Smyers drafted his brother, Emerson, and set about the construction of one of his now-famous stoves, it was easy to see that the recycled-into-a-firebox electric water heater tank was the real secret of his wood-burner's low cost. Also its ease of assembly. Heck. Once you've found your "junked but still in good condition" water heater tank, you've already got about three-quarters of your stove "custom made" just the way you want it.

And it really isn't difficult to find one of these tanks, either. Most of the landfills scattered around the country, in fact, are so filled with the containers that we've- developed a sneaking suspicion the old water heaters breed out there. Maybe not ... but there sure are a lot of 'em "out there" for the taking.

Any discarded electric (forget the gas ones for this project) water heater from 30- to 50-gallon capacity will convert nicely into a stove. We've come to think, however, that one of the 30-gallon tanks (with a diameter of 20 inches and a length of 32 inches) makes the best-looking wood-burner of all.

Pick and choose a little from your friendly local landfills, dumps, or the alleyways behind appliance stores until you find just the tank or tanks you want. Then (if you're doing your "shopping" in a landfill or dump) strip off the lightweight sheet metal "wrapper" and insulation right in the field and make sure that the main tank inside isn't rusted out or filled with corrosion. Or, if circumstances dictate, you can do this stripping back home in your shop and then haul the castoff sheet metal and insulation back to the dump when you're ready to discard them.

THE REST IS EASY

Anyone with a cutting torch and welder will find the rest easy. And if you don't own or operate such equipment, scout around until you find a competent welding shop that'll convert your tank at a reasonable price.

Lay the container on its side and add legs and the "loading hopper box with hinged lid" as illustrated in the accompanying drawing. Then weld in the "exhaust stack" or "smoke boot" as shown. Make sure that all seams are airtight and that the hoqper box lid fits snugly (airtight) too. he draft control is, perhaps, the most critical part of all. If it's well made and doesn't leak, you'll have good and positive control of your finished stove's blaze and temperature at all times. Conversely, if it isn't well made and it does leak, you won't. Work carefully and do the job right.

Once the stove is completely assembled, paint all its outside surfaces with Rustoleum Bar-B-Q black paint or "high temperature engine paint". You've just built yourself one mighty fine wood-burner! And—even if you bought everything (approximately 65 pounds of steel) except the recycled water heater tank, you shouldn't have spent more than $35 on the project. (Bob and Emerson built MOTHER's demonstration model in one short day—six hours—for a total cost of $31.54.)

 

IT WORKS!

MOTHER researcher Dennis Burk-holder has been using our original "water heater wood stove" to warm his entire 1,100square-foot house since last fall and he's constantly amazed at the large amount of heat and small amount of ashes the unit produces. He's also been pleasantly surprised by the way the heater holds a fire overnight. "All I do in the morning," says Dennis, "is jar the stove a couple of times, open the draft a bit ... and the ole log-burner snaps right to life."

 Dennis, in fact, has bragged up that first stove so much that other MOTHER staffers have now built and are using variations of the same design. And we currently have so much experience (all good!) with the heaters under our collective belt that MOTHER has put together a complete set of step-by-step plans and instructions that cover every possible finer point of building and using one of the wood-burners. If you'd like a set, send $6.00 and your name and address to Wood-Burner, P.O. Box A, East Flat Rock, N.C. 28726.

Even when you add in the cost of the plans and operating manual, your "$500 wood-burning stove" still shouldn't cost you more than $41!

 

 


All articles are reprinted just as they were published on the date indicated. Source listings, addresses and prices have not been updated; some details may have changed and terminology may be outmoded.

In some cases the scanning software used to create the digital articles has introduced typos into the text. In particular, the software often translated fractions incorrectly, i.e. "1/2" now reads as "112". We are working to correct these errors.



 




Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: January 31 2006 at 3:35am

I have read that a dryer drum..would also be good for this..and of course we all have dryers...

I would use my dryer drum and I have a fire pit in my back yard surronded by meduims sized rocks..I would use the rocks around the dryer drum..and this would be set up on my concrete floor in the basement..and I would use the shell on the floor to stop to much heat and then I have gas forced air and would use some of this piping to ventalate..I know it sounds hazardous, but I would prefer this over freezing to death...I have stored firewood in my shed, not much, but enough to heat a bit...



Posted By: Angel
Date Posted: January 31 2006 at 8:02am
Don't forget to stock up on matches!  I have been buying all I find.

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Angel


Posted By: Deej
Date Posted: January 31 2006 at 9:20am
we have been using a barrel stove for years at work, now have one at home, works great, husband welded a plate on top to put kettle for steam, can also cook on top if needed.  whatever you do, just make sure wood is dry   ( look for cracks in logs ) if its too wet or not cured it can cause buildup that can lead to a fire.  and please have your chimney checked by a prof. just to be sure its ok...

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dee


Posted By: Spoon
Date Posted: January 31 2006 at 9:40am

I added a http://www.caframo.com/ecofans.htm - Caframo Ecofan 802 to the top of my stove.  It creates DC current from heat.  It starts turning at 150 degrees.  (full speed, 150 CFM, around 400 degrees)

It really works!  I'm thinking of getting another one.



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It's not so much the apocalypse... but the credit card bills ;-)


Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: February 11 2006 at 10:51pm

I just purchased a heavy duty down comforter for half price, $150.00, as it's February. It should keep you toasty warm. A hat and down slippers can keep in alot of body heat.
One winter we had a severe ice storm, electricity was out, our fireplace sent 80% of the heat up the chimmey, we were so cold, so we took a few large stones, heated them in our fireplace, and placed them in coffee cans, they gave off lots of heat, drastic but effective. When you're very cold, any heat helps. I believe in the old days folks put them in their beds!

MK



Posted By: chefmom
Date Posted: February 11 2006 at 10:57pm
my mom did that with bricks wrapped in newspaper and put them in the foot of our beds during a blizzard when we had no power for a week in 1978. I still remember how toasty my feet were!

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May God protect us all.       


Posted By: Ella Fitzgerald
Date Posted: February 11 2006 at 11:20pm

I not so much worried for this winter as I am for next. I'm in the south so we have decent temps especially this year.

I have heard of stories of using hot rocks in bed to keep warm. I've also concluded that if we are without electricity and a cold front comes through then I'm going to confine the family to one room lined with down comforters on the walls and ceiling. I've noticed that my closet is always one of warmest rooms in the house. It is lined with clothes. Heck this could become our "warm room". Small spaces warm up with 4 bodies in it pretty quickly. I'm too 'chicken'  to have warm bricks touching anything flamable so maybe I could find a metal pan to put them in to keep the air warm.

Heck with natural gas prices I might as well start now and save money to buy rations.



Posted By: fritz
Date Posted: February 12 2006 at 5:16pm
Ella, you could use one of those campfire popcorn poppers (cleaned really well or unused I would think or you will be dreaming of popcorn) and fill it with hot embers or hot coals and place it between the sheets as a bed warmer just like they did in colonial times. The popper is metal and the handle is wooden.

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"I am only one; but still I am one, I cannot do everything, but still I can do something. I will not refuse to do the something I can do." -- Hellen Keller


Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: February 13 2006 at 8:11am

I will be using the following amoung other things such as the Nuwick Candle: (If you want more heat just put another wick in it or it can be used to cook with)

Example: Can get just the blanket kind or: 

A special design blanket or poncho that utilizes the proven thermal and weather protective benefits of the original Space® Brand all-weather blanket material. Contoured hood fully protects ones head, and fitted hand inserts all make for a light compact design. 5’ x 6’ in Olive Drab. Reinforced and center grommeted with all edges bound. Great ground cover, retains 80% body heat, lightweight, can use as a solar shade, and much more! Made in the USA.

http://www.majorsurplusnsurvival.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=112699&Category_Code=211 - http://www.majorsurplusnsurvival.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?S creen=PROD&Product_Code=112699&Category_Code=211



Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: February 19 2006 at 4:09pm
Get a hot water bottle from any drug-store. Made out of rubber, cost about $6 and last pretty much forever. Fill it about 2/3 with boiling water, push the air out (very important!!) and seal it tight with the stopper. I'm from Europe initially and everyone uses them. You'll be nice and toasty in no time ! Also perfect for anytime someone has fever-chills.


Posted By: mortgageman99
Date Posted: February 20 2006 at 6:53pm

I apologize if anyone has posted about this before. 

A cheap way to keep warm...buy a fire blanket.  These are the kind you get in the case there is a fire and you need to shield yourself.

From experience in emergency management, fire blankets are great and can be inexpensive.  A good one utilize your own body heat to keep a steady temperature under the blanket. 

Chris



Posted By: Chuck-91
Date Posted: February 20 2006 at 6:57pm

I have recently purchased a number of propane items. Two lanterns, 2 burner stove, 1 burner stove, indoor catalytic heater, and all maner of hoses, y connectors, fittings and 4 20 lb propane tanks and 2 cases of one lb tanks

Many years ago when I worked with plumbing and high pressure pumping systems we always used Teflon tape on the threads at the joints to eliminate leaks by making the threads fit tighter. |What I cant seem to find out is if this is a good idea with propane systems. Sure dont want flamable gas leaks. I know u can find leaks with soapy water but would rather not have them to start with. The teenagers and managers at the sporting goods and plumbing stores were singularly ignorant and/or unhelpful. Anybody out there know if this is a good idea or dangerous or unnecessary or what???    Please, no guessing, knlowledge only.  By the way I was able to buy a handy little fitting at the Harbor Freight store for refilling 1lb disposable cylinders from 20 lb or larger tanks.  cost about $16.00. Also would appreciate any other insights on using propane fuled devices as I never have been much on recreational camping.( burned out on it in the Marine Corps I guess)  Semper Fi !



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Those who will not learn from history are condemned to repeat it.


Posted By: Hope
Date Posted: February 28 2006 at 12:07am

We have gas and electric at our home.  What are the chances that this will not be available during a pandemic in the US?  Should we really be stock piling wood with the thought of converting our gas fireplaces?



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Hope


Posted By: Spoon
Date Posted: February 28 2006 at 8:05am

Hope,

Most utilities require daily monitoring and maintenance.  How many essential personnel will show up for work during a raging H2H pandemic?  I'm not sure myself... but I have to believe it will be, at best, a skeleton crew.  Areas that are served electricity underground have a better chance of surviving maintenance issues.

We have utility poles and a butt-load of trees.  No gas service but plenty of grill propane.  I also converted my fireplace to a wood stove, added basic solar power to run the fans, and will store about 4-5 cords of wood for next winter.



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It's not so much the apocalypse... but the credit card bills ;-)


Posted By: Daydreamer
Date Posted: February 28 2006 at 1:56pm
 We have heated with wood for years now so we have an older cast iron wood stove. It is a Timberline model that has two doors that swing open in the front. It has a flat top on it and I have used it to cook on in past winters when the power went out.
This woodstove heats the majority of the house but we can block off rooms that wouldn't need heat. We can also move a mattress into the livingroom for sleeping.
The one thing that we need to keep on hand is more fuel for the chainsaw (we cut our own wood) and extra parts for the chainsaw. Plus it wouldn't hurt to get extra wood stacked up.

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Don't put off tomorrow what you can PREP today


Posted By: Mississipp Mama
Date Posted: February 28 2006 at 6:54pm
  Hope I would rather take my chances in the winter with a wood burning stove.  If you can afford to have it converted I would.  The less dependent we are on the system the better off we will be.


Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: February 28 2006 at 8:05pm

This reminds me of looking for a house last week. The first house was beautiful, but had no fireplace so I didn't buy it. The next had a gas fireplace so I skipped it as well.

There's nothing more efficent and sensible than a woodstove. We used ours for 20 years of winters and it heated our home quite well, plus saved us about $500.00 a year in heating bills. It has well paid for itself.

Daydreamer, great idea about the extra firewood and chainsaw fuel............I forgot about that!

Dang, there's just too much stuff to remember!

I did store up a huge bag of pine cones, ....great fire starters. Also any recycling bin is a good resource for newspaper to wrap the pine cones with. I usually find dozens of unused papers that stores throw away. {Don't touch the stuff that's been used.}

Mary Kay


Posted By: Daydreamer
Date Posted: March 01 2006 at 3:52am
We don't have access to pine cones here unless we buy them at a store so we make our own fire starters. We take a cardboard egg carton. Fill up each section with dry sawdust (from when we are cutting wood). Then we take a cheap candle and melt it down. We pour the liquid wax over the sawdust in each of the sections. Let it dry and when you need one, you just break off a section and there you do. They burn for a long time.

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Don't put off tomorrow what you can PREP today


Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: March 01 2006 at 6:39am
Daydreamer, that sounds like a neat idea.
Do you fill each with enough wax to entirely coat the sawdust? Do you stir it?
I've got plenty of old wax from candles so this is a great cheap way to keep warm.
Thanks! : )

Mary Kay


Posted By: Daydreamer
Date Posted: March 21 2006 at 1:43pm
Sorry I didn't get back to this one sooner Mary Kay. We fill each of them enough to completely cover the sawdust. We've never stirred them before. I just make sure the all the sawdust is covered on the top with wax. As it hardens you can see where you missed and just pour a little more on that area.
 
These fire starters have worked well for me for several years. I hate having to start a fire with small twigs and such. I can but I'm lazy and don't like to take the time.


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Don't put off tomorrow what you can PREP today


Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: March 26 2006 at 8:41pm
Great idea Daydream. We have used the kind you buy at the store in the past. Guess they will be out of those! Do you use the recycled paper egg cartons, and then just rip it off? We have found that keeping our wood stove going is very easy. It keeps the coals for a long time. It was definitely  the best forward looking investment that we made. We have been able to heat the whole house. I also like the way it looks. We got one of the off white porcelain ones that looks very European.  Matches my decor quite well. When i look at it sort of disguises the fact that we have gone SURVIVALIST!!! It looks very pretty tucked into my brick fireplace.  Friends remark how pretty it is, they have no idea it was a BF investment!!!
 
We also bought a few Mr. Heater Buddy heaters. They work of of one or two small propane cylinders. The larger model has a fan run with 4 D cell batteries. The run for quite a while, and each unit has a low oxygen shut of system. They are approved for use indoors. That is only with the 1 lb cylinders though. You can hook it up to a twenty lb tank, but you need a hose and must keep the tank outside.  We bought a bunch of cases of fuel to use for the heater, as well as cooking. We are having carbon monoxide detectors installed into our security system which will run on solar back up.
I do know that they sell battery ones as well.  I think this is a good precaution to take with using propane in the house!!


Posted By: Daydreamer
Date Posted: March 27 2006 at 7:50am
Diane~yes, we use the recycled paper egg cartons. Once they have the wax in them, they break off very easily. We usually manage to keep a fire in our stove all the time but I've had the occasion that the coals weren't hot enough to get it going very well. I'd just throw one of these on the coals and they'd either catch that way or I'd light them. I wouldn't go through a winter without at least an 18 pack of these. I believe we currently have 5 of the 18 packs so I should be good for quite a while, unless we use them to start our cooking fires outside in the fire pit. I may need to get more made.

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Don't put off tomorrow what you can PREP today


Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: March 30 2006 at 10:09am
I have propane to heat with, also a backup wood stove. BUT, I did not see any mention of a kerosine heater. I have one and it heats for about twelve hours on a gallon of kerosone. And kerosine will last for years without going bad.
I have a 55 gallon drum, and extra wicks for the heater.


Posted By: Breeze26
Date Posted: April 03 2006 at 7:11pm
Daydreamer thank you for the fire starter tip.  I made some a couple days ago and they turned out great.  I didn't have sawdust so I used some hamster bedding (new of course) and worked perfectly. 

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Human beings can always be relied upon to exert, with vigor, their God-given right to be stupid. Dean Koontz


Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: April 07 2006 at 9:38pm
Spoon---

You  mentioned that you have utliitiy poles? I hope you are not using those for firewood. They are treated with some nasty chemicals. Creosote is one and the other is a copper based preservative.

Thanks!


Posted By: tazman
Date Posted: April 09 2006 at 3:42pm
I bought a 55gallon metal drum for fuel. where can I buy clean burning kerosene for my keresene heater for cheap.

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Email me your favorite links: mailto:help@resistbirdflu.com - My Email


Posted By: Gilmore
Date Posted: April 10 2006 at 7:32pm
Setting up a tent in your house reduces the amount of space needed to heat if you lose power/heating capability. Just pretend you're camping. . . Don't forget to drain the water lines so they don't freeze


Posted By: Gilmore
Date Posted: April 10 2006 at 7:33pm
Lowes Home Improvement has 100lb Propane tanks for (US) $80.00 


Posted By: Commonground
Date Posted: May 04 2006 at 1:44pm
REMINDER: Get your chimney swept (cleaned) and service your furnace now.


Posted By: Brad
Date Posted: May 04 2006 at 8:19pm
Originally posted by Gilmore Gilmore wrote:

Lowes Home Improvement has 100lb Propane tanks for (US) $80.00 


I have the impression that the 100# propane tanks use different fittings and hoses than the standard barbeque 20# tanks.  Is that correct, and if so, are there adaptors available so you can use 100# tanks with things like a Coleman stove or a Mr. Heater Buddy heater?  Thanks for any info.


Posted By: Rocky
Date Posted: May 04 2006 at 8:40pm
    Planning to use a small propane heater in large tent for extended family. With ventilation, is a propane heater any problem re. carbon monoxide? Rocky

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Prepare for the Unexpected!
Rocky
http://www.homeemergencyusa.com - http://www.homeemergencyusa.com


Posted By: nettie4263
Date Posted: May 04 2006 at 9:22pm
Originally posted by Gilmore Gilmore wrote:

Setting up a tent in your house reduces the amount of space needed to heat if you lose power/heating capability. Just pretend you're camping. . . Don't forget to drain the water lines so they don't freeze
 
Excellent idea, I hadn't thought of that!
 
How do you drain the water lines??


Posted By: gilmor
Date Posted: May 04 2006 at 10:01pm
Originally posted by Brad Brad wrote:


Originally posted by Gilmore Gilmore wrote:

Lowes Home Improvement has 100lb Propane tanks for (US) $80.00 


I have the impression that the 100# propane tanks use different
fittings and hoses than the standard barbeque 20# tanks.  Is that
correct, and if so, are there adaptors available so you can use 100#
tanks with things like a Coleman stove or a Mr. Heater Buddy
heater?  Thanks for any info.

.
.
    Brad,

I haven't filled it up yet. . . I'll get back when I do. I know that adapters are available if required. . .

Gilmore
.
.
   


Posted By: gilmor
Date Posted: May 04 2006 at 10:20pm
Originally posted by nettie4263 nettie4263 wrote:

How do you drain the water lines??

    
First shut the water off to the entire house. Can be done at a valve near the meter (probably near street) or there should be a valve just before water enters your home.

Find the lowest AND highest point in your water pipes where there are valves. Open the highest one. This will bleed off any pressure that remained in the line after you shut off the entire house.

Then, open the lowest valve and HOPEFULLY most of the water in between will drain out. . . This won't be completely drained because of elbows (90 & 45's) that may be higher / lower.

Then if you are really ambitious, force air into the "highest" valve to push remain water out.

Then, again if you even more ambitious, use a wet / dry shop vac and suck the air / water out of the "lowest" valve.

Then, open and close ALL the valves in the house to get anything that was in a "riser" that didn't get drained.

Make sure you do both hot and cold water lines.

Also make sure you empty the water heater.

Also the hose faucets outside your house. . .

WHEW,
Gilmore
.
.




Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: May 05 2006 at 5:33am
I always wondered how to do that!  Thanks so much for the info!! It was worth the 'Whew'!!!-k


Posted By: Brad
Date Posted: May 06 2006 at 6:48pm
Originally posted by Rocky Rocky wrote:

    Planning to use a small propane heater in large tent for extended family. With ventilation, is a propane heater any problem re. carbon monoxide? Rocky


In my opinion the use of propane heaters in an enclosed area is potentially VERY dangerous.  Most common, small propane heaters (like the Coleman and Century models) are not rated for indoor use, and they can kill you.  Other propane heaters (like the kinds used in homes, houseboats, motorhomes) have catalytic converters (I believe) and are rated for indoor use.

By far the most common kind of small propane heaters that are rated for indoor use are the Mr. Heater Portable Buddy and Big Buddy models.  They give off small amounts of CO and have low-oxygen sensors, and with a bit of ventilation they're pretty darn safe.  I've used my Portable Buddy indoors many times.  You can connect them to the small 1# propane canisters (from Target or WalMart or tons of other places), or get an adaptor hose and feed them from a 20# "barbeque-type" of propane tank.


Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: May 07 2006 at 8:26pm
I am from the south and while I do not currently have fireplace or woodstove, fatlight as it is called in the south is a great kindling.  It comes from the decayed stump of a pine tree and has concentrated oils in it and you can sometimes just light the end of it with a cigarette lighter.


Posted By: roxy
Date Posted: May 28 2006 at 6:59am
hi to all, i want to buy a wood burnig stove in the next couple of months, one that will not put me in the poor house, i like to be able to heat the downstairs 4 rooms of my house ,and be able to heat or make water hot on it ,cooking on it would be great, novice buyer here .any body got any reconmendations , I live in connecticut,if all else fails we have a small pot belly stove in storage, but if no oil for furnice, and i believe the price of oil will be out of this world this winter , i'd  like to have something reliable  thanks for any help you can post  roxy


Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: June 01 2006 at 10:25pm

Home Heating in an Emergency:

http://muextension.missouri.edu/explore/hesguide/housing/gh5117.htm - http://muextension.missouri.edu/explore/hesguide/housing/gh5117.htm



Posted By: roxy
Date Posted: June 02 2006 at 9:48am
 thank you irene,i copied the site  and will put it my  prep binder.great infro for beginners and they also have infro on green houses that i always need roxy , thanks again


Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: June 17 2006 at 9:20pm
I have not made one of these, but I have the plans and materials to make one.  In the winter it is usually sunny here, so I think it might work pretty well
http://www.motherearthnews.com/library/1977_September_October/Mother_s__Heat_Grabber - http://www.motherearthnews.com/library/1977_September_October/Mother_s__Heat_Grabber _


Posted By: roxy
Date Posted: June 18 2006 at 4:34am
hi and thanks for posting, I checked the site,the problem with making this for my home is my windows slide from right to left, not up and down. but this would also be good for some one making a green house, they could add this to their plans roxy


Posted By: kymom
Date Posted: July 04 2006 at 5:29pm
 I wanted my fireplace cleaned, well bad news for us, It was put in wrong, they took out all the firebrick, then they had a home made woodburner.  I was glad to find that out early. Now need over 500 dollars to replace it. So please dont wait call to have your fireplace or wood burner cleaned and check out now.Smile


Posted By: honeybee
Date Posted: July 05 2006 at 9:27pm
A REQUEST FOR HELP FROM THE EXPERTS:
 
We use a pellet stove.  If we loose power during the winter we can't run it. 
 
Is there anything we can do to heat the house?  Is there a way to convert it somehow, still using the pellets?  Or a way to battery operate the fan system?  We won't care that it isn't using the thermastate, we can control that ourselves by starting and stopping it.  I figure by that point, we will drape off and only heat the livng room, kitchen area, and sleep in the lr.
 
any ideas?
 
 
Edited later - I just found another thread that said you can run the fan system off a car battery for about 18 hours give or take. 
 
My word - first I will be syphoning my car for gas for the generator, then stealing my own battery when that runs out...what then? lol


-------------
Honeybee


Posted By: GreenTeam
Date Posted: October 07 2006 at 7:11pm
I am looking at buying a small indoor propane heater for emergencies. What would be better:
 
- A 3000 BTU unit that will run for 7 hours on one propane canister, OR
- A 1500 BTU unit that will run for 14 hours on one propane canister?
 
We live in Minnesota and it can get mighty cold here in the winter. We have no fireplace, just a forced-air gas furnace.
 
Thanks!


Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: October 09 2006 at 12:49pm
I have a coleman portable catalytic heater that is rated for indoor use and it is 3000 btu's.  I used it during an icestorm when the power was out and it only put out enough heat to keep one average size (closed off) room bearable.  One canister of propane lasts 6-8 hours. 


Posted By: GreenTeam
Date Posted: October 09 2006 at 8:30pm
Thanks for the info, Chloe! I was looking at the Coleman heaters, perhaps the one that is skinny and upright, or the one that looks like a big light bulb that sits at an angle.
 
So yours at 3000 BTUs kept one room bearable? What temp do you think it was in your room? I would consider temps in the 50s to be bearable, and the 40s to be survivable. We usually keep our thermostat set at 62 during the night in the winter.
 
If one canister lasts just 6-8 hours, and if there is a long power outage, that means you'd have to have many canisters stocked away!  Is that doable?
 
Where do you buy the canisters? I haven't found them online.
 
Are there other viable strategies for heating without a fireplace?
 
I've also considered getting a solar generator system with enough power to run an electric space heater, but it would be quite expensive.


Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: October 23 2006 at 1:06am
Originally posted by kymom kymom wrote:

 I wanted my fireplace cleaned, well bad news for us, It was put in wrong, they took out all the firebrick, then they had a home made woodburner.  I was glad to find that out early. Now need over 500 dollars to replace it. So please dont wait call to have your fireplace or wood burner cleaned and check out now.Smile
 
excellent point,,we just had ours done too and found out the bricks on top were crumbling,,etc,,(they took a polaroid up there and brought it back down to us to see) our house is 40 plus years old so things do age from time to time.  but importantly,,,we need to spend 1800.00 bucks for a new pan and restoration.  i am just glad we found out about it too before heavy usage occurs in our fireplace!


Posted By: c bass'n
Date Posted: November 09 2006 at 8:37pm
How much wood do you need for a wood burning fireplace; If you were going to burn for 1 month with no other heat source.  Let's say, average winter in midwest.
 
How much wood do you need for a wood burning cook stove; for 1 month?
 
I don't know, how to come up, with a good estimate.
 
Just would like to know how you all have figured this out.
 
 
Thanks for the help, suggestion..Smile


Posted By: c bass'n
Date Posted: November 15 2006 at 2:57pm
O.K.  Could someone please tell me how many Logs you use in 1Day in your fireplace, or your cook stove for heating and cooking.   I don't have alot of room to store 4 cords of wood.  Just trying to get a good guess of what I really need in amount of wood logs.  Thanks
                                                                                                      
My wood burning fireplace was converted to natural gas, next week having nat. gas taken out.,coverted back to wood burning.  And a chimmey stack put in for wood burning cook stove.  Thanks


Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: November 15 2006 at 3:14pm
c bass'n - I will tell you what we use.  We have a 2000 sq ft house on one floor.  Our wood stove is in our living room and that room has a 14 foot ceiling. When we are home, we use our wood stove for our primary heat.  We usually keep our thermostats set on 60 and when burning in the wood stove our boiler doesn't come on.  We live in the Northeast and our winters are cold and snowy.  We usually go through about 4 cords of wood a winter.  Remember, that is part time use.  To heat totally with wood, it would take us at least twice that amount.  Of course, we could stretch it out by blocking off part of the house.  Don't know what size your house is and how cold it gets where you are at, so the question is kind of hard to answer.   Also it depends on what kind of wood you get.  Different kinds produce different BTU's.  We are lucky enough to live in the woods and most of our trees are hardwood's - Oak and maple etc.
Hope this helps.
 
GG
 


Posted By: c bass'n
Date Posted: November 15 2006 at 10:31pm
Hi GG,   Big Help,  Thank you very much....Smile  You take care with those storms in the N.W.


Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: November 27 2006 at 6:22am
I just bought a small old cast iron coal cook stove for $65 and refinished it. High quality clean burning coal is very cheap and can be bought and stored in 50 lb bags. It burns much cleaner than wood, doesn't absorb water like wood and burns all day long. I have used it in the backyard to try it out and am convinced , for me, that is the way to go. Seems so much easier than wood.

No I just have to install it in the house.


Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: November 30 2006 at 10:56pm

soot?  How often do you have to clean stove pipe?  Could it catch on fire...like chimney fire?  I have to ask...as it sounds good, but I have zero knowledge of coal burning.

.....................

also... on the first ...second? post up there with the alcohol burning heater/paint can?   If you used it in a small room, and needed to crack a window for ventilation...you need to do that right?  well it's well below zero a lot...would it even give off enough heat?  with a window cracked?



Posted By: Pegasus
Date Posted: December 01 2006 at 6:16am
anharra,  I can't answer your soot question except to say that if you do not clean the soot from the pipes periodically (depends on how much use it gets) you could have a MAJOR pile of black sticky oily dust all over the room your stove pipe is in - if not thru the rest of the house.   Hard woods tend to burn cleaner/hotter so the flu build-up will be slower - NEVER burn pine in your fireplace.  Yes it's cheap and easliy available but the sap will build up on your chimney liner and can lead to a flu fire
 
   You NEED to open a window (even just a crack - not wide open) when you have a fuel source burning in your home or garage.  Even my little ceramic heater recommends ventilation of the room.  Keeps the carbon monoxide levels at bay and fresh oxygen coming in (for the heating unit to burn properly and more importantly for you to breathe).  I would also remind everyone to get a Carbon Monoxide detector for their home.  
 
Keep a fire extiguisher, water (not for electrical sources) or a box/bag of baking soda close by your fire/heat source.  You can't go running to the garage to dig it out in a time of need.  If it's not close by- simply get out and call 911.  Even if it's close by and you use it, call 911 and have the trained firefighters check to be sure there is no fire spreading elsewhere behind your walls. 


-------------
     "We do not know the true value of moments until they have undergone the test of memory."   unknown author


Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: December 23 2006 at 7:07am
Originally posted by wrote:

soot?  How often do you have to clean stove pipe?  Could it catch on fire...like chimney fire?  I have to ask...as it sounds good, but I have zero knowledge of coal burning.

.....................

also... on the first ...second? post up there with the alcohol burning heater/paint can?   If you used it in a small room, and needed to crack a window for ventilation...you need to do that right?  well it's well below zero a lot...would it even give off enough heat?  with a window cracked?

 
anthracite coal ( hard coal ) not the same stuff used in power plants burns very clean with no soot, and no smoke especially compared to wood.


Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: December 23 2006 at 7:09am
Pegasus,
 
You just reminded me I need to stock some fire extinguishers. THANKS!


Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: December 23 2006 at 10:23pm
You can do many things.

You can keep your barbecue outside and use it to boil pots of water.

Bring the hot water pots inside and cozy up.   Hot water stays hot
for long periods of time.

Or you can use your barbecue outside to heat rocks and bring them inside.  Rocks soak up heat and release it slowly.

Do not use the barbecue inside.  Do not do stupid things.

Keep a fire burning in a outside stove or camp fire and use it to
cook and heat inside.


Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: March 13 2007 at 10:11pm
    You can get the propane cylinders at Walmart. Get the
Ozark Trail brand. There cheaper than coleman and are just as good. I cleaned out one of the cabinets under a bathroom sink. I have about 50 lined up in there. You can also get the 20 cylinders. You will need 2 adaptor hoses to make it work.


Posted By: Never2late
Date Posted: March 15 2007 at 10:05am
Kerosene - you can use for heat,light, and cooking. By being patient, I have bought a larger convection heater (23,000 BTU) and a small radiant heater (7000 BTU) and new wicks for less than $100. I've got these cleaned up and ready to go. I have two new, in the box, "old stock" Aladdin lamps and extra mantles that I bought off of E-bay for less than 1/2 price new. And I picked up a few "hurricane lamps" at garage sales for a few bucks. The only "trick" to kerosene is that you don't want to buy the fuel and have it go bad. I have a few 5 gallon containers ready to be filled and have identifed a couple of different sources. I buy a couple of gallons of synthetic kerosene (Kleen-Heat) whenever it is being sold cheap because it will last a very long time. Plus I have the Coleman "white gas" camping stoves and lamps that you can pick up for $5 at garage sales.

       


Posted By: diego
Date Posted: September 18 2007 at 9:26pm
hi everyone from the woods of Michigan's u.p. , this makes 32 winters on our Ashley side loader. we cut ,split and burn 10 pulp cord a season. also have a ready to use wood cook range, real beauty. something i didn't see mentioned was winter clothing. official ( yooper) winterware, carhearts or snowmobile suit with mickey mouse boots. buy for you and the kids. this is essential survival gear, you can live in your suit even without any heat. Ive been out all day in tree popping, eye watering, instant frozen nose hair, -35 below and stay toasty warm. kerosene will keep indefinitely. i have a few 55 gal. drums of k-1 clear stored since 1998 to be used for lighting only when t.s.h.t.f. the wood heat is free for the cutting. bye and stay warm , eh.



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